(May 26 journal entry)

Eurostar wasn't what I expected (crowded, yes; unairconditioned -- only car 18! -- no), but we arrived in Paris, tired, stressed & feeling like deer-in-headlights (resembling them, too, I'm sure, despite efforts not to) from Gard du Nord to Montmarte. Would Paris be everything I'd dreamed? What if it wasn't? My bags clattered behind me into the night and there was the city my imagination has already known: brick & whitewashed buildings, every window adorned with beautiful (and individualized) iron balconies, green trees meeting rooftops, shading, protecting sidewalks & streets ending at the next blocks' corners as a puzzle overlooking the city. Do I like Paris? Cafés are abundant with patrons chatting over cigarettes, red wine & food -- being French -- fresh food markets aren't difficult to locate. Edith Piaf certainly stands on nearby street-corners singing as sparrows do, in spirit anyway. Not to mention our hostel on Rue Caulaincourt: floor-to-ceiling window (with iron railing, naturally), wallpaper, light fixtures, writing desk:chair, stylish bathroom & delicious breakfasts (esp. croissants & granola cereal with dried fruits) -- 25e/night!

An exciting first day yesterday (isn't every day?), stop one: the Eiffel Tower, not as stupid Americans, but to convince ourselves (as if Montmarte didn't) that we are indeed in Paris (pronounced with a French accent, sil-vous-plait). As enjoyable as London was (esp. the company of Ashleigh & Martin), even with eyes glued to Big Ben, we weren't mentally positive of our worldly whereabouts. But I could still easily spend a few years of my life there teaching, writing. And go to Paris, of course.

In the evening, after an afternoon at Cimetière du Passy and de Montparnasse visiting with the likes of Debussy, Beckett & Sartre, Allison & I made our way down the hills, umbrella (from home, not Cherbourg) at hand, for food & decided on the lovely, reasonably priced Café de Ciné, the restaurant's windows offering another wonderful view of the neighborhood from its corner; for me, salmon & pasta with a delicious sauce, bordeaux to drink & an assortment of French cheeses for dessert: my one special Parisian meal & money well-spent. Returning for a good night's sleep, we could clearly see the Eiffel Tower lighting up our evening & the night sky.

And now, my entry meets today, which was an extension of yesterday afternoon at Cimetière du Père Lachaise to pay honors to (and leave with grave rubbings of) many more first-class artists (Wilde, Piaf, Chopin, Proust, etc). It began to rain as we made our way from the cemetery to Sacré-Coeur & our umbrellas weren't on us, so we ate croissants at the foot of the hill in the protection of old trees (we'll walk up soon enough!) & then browsed souvenier shops to avoid rain as we made our way to the metro station. Moulin Rouge tonight & crepes avec chocolat noir liquide from a corner vendor.

Oh, for the record, I've meet only very friendly Parisians, even giving a middle-aged couple directions in broken French!